Howth village itself is a slow, suburban place full of steep streets and sudden views. Its one monument, on a quiet site overlooking Ireland's Eye, is the ruined Howth Abbey, the first church founded by Sigtrygg, Norse king of Dublin, in 1042. In one of the later phases of a chequered history, it was used by smugglers for storing contraband. The abbey is kept locked, but it is possible to get the keys from the caretaker (tel 840 1979). Just below the abbey is the Abbey Tavern : bare, stone-walled, with stark wood furniture, turf fires and gas lighting. While the old-world ambience can seem a little over-the-top it's well worth visiting, as long as you don't mind the tourist bus-trip approach to Irish wit and music. The Abbey Tavern restaurant specializes in fish (best to book; tel 839 0307) while the adjoining pub serves hearty lunchtime fare. The small lane and steep steps beside the pub lead to the excellent Big Blue café/restaurant, a tastefully restored building overlooking the abbey where you can lounge in a deep-blue sofa and enjoy a coffee, while taking in views of the abbey ruins below, and beyond to the harbour and Ireland's Eye. The other good eating place, if you've money to burn, is the excellent King Sitric's Tavern , East Pier (tel 633 5235) with expensive but fabulous main courses of fresh seafood, while at the opposite end of the market, opposite the west pier (nearest the train station), is another outlet of the excellent Beshoff's fish-and-chip shops.
No comments:
Post a Comment